Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Celestra Grey

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Of course if you want to put down a larger slab of concrete you’ll have to glue it on after the fact. Enter Fenris Grey. Using just a bit of Fenris Grey and a healthy amount of Lahmian medium I make a light grey wash to apply all over the lion. It is very subtle but it makes for a cool ghostly ethereal vibe which works well for this warp-touched beast. I dont use any specific ratios, I just go on feel, adding a bit more grey for the mane areas, more Lahmian Medium on the body. Kantor Blue is a dark blue paint. As a Citadel base paint, you can use it as a base coat layer for other brighter blue paints, or as a shade for other colors, like red (an adventurous way to harmonize your color palette and add contrast). I paint almost all my blue-glowy powerswords using Kantor blue as the base layer. Mixing this dark blue with lighter blues, i.e., Alaitoc Blue, or white brings up the gradients. Smooth application with this paint will also help you add a bit of cool metallic sheen to your NMM painting. For those working on Warhammer 40k Ultramarines, this is the blue I use to shade Macragge Blue. Alaitoc Blue I started by painting the flesh with Games Workshop The Fang. I then wash the model using two different shades: The top half of the model was washed with Drakenhof Nightshade and the bottom was washed with Druchii Violet to give it more of a purple hue. Finally, using Citadel Averland Sunset, paint in a fine central line down the columns and rows that have green squares in. This done, you’ll find the effect suddenly jumps into focus

Grey Seer is just a light neutral grey, so if you're not hell bent on a perfect match then any light neutral grey should probably do the job. I think most of the other citadel light greys aren't neutral. Administratum Grey perhaps, but that's a bit darker. For the next step I use Coeilia Greenshade mixed with Lahmian Medium to add a nice touch of blue green to the lion’s mane and tail. The green in this excellent paint adds some range of color to the model to avoid being monotone greys and blues. In the end it helps to create a more ethereal look to the model. If say however, I was painting a White Scars Space Marine I would use Drakenhoff Darkshade/Lahmian Medium mix after using the grey which would give greater definition, but look a bit less ethereal/mystical. If was painting a Luna Wolf I may go for Russ Grey for grittier more muted approach all round.

Horns

For most miniature pieces I paint yellow, I use Yriel Yellow as my highlight for yellow surfaces. I’ve painted nearly every Imperial Fist space marine piece I own with this paint as the main color. For highlighting Averland Sunset (above), this is the perfect choice. Mix the two paints together for a nice midtone transition. To paint fire effects, you can use this yellow as the transition between the orange and the white parts of the flame. I don’t use any yellows brighter than Yriel Yellow, lest I allow my viewers to think I used a highlighter pen on my miniatures. This is a must-have yellow paint along with Averland Sunset. Mournfang Brown Of all the green paints in the Citadel Paint line, Waaaagh! Flesh is the green paint color that made me take a second look. It’s not really a bright green or a dark green, but somewhere in the middle. Waaaagh! Flesh is a base formulated paint designed for easy 1-2 layer coverage and smooths out evenly when dry. It works great as a main color paint for green skin tones, e.g., orcs and goblins, or as a highlight for darker greens and even browns when mixed properly with warmer color hues. You can wash the dried surface with shades, such as Agrax Earthshade to darken the texture, too. Contrast is king, so play with different techniques to make your surfaces appear crisp.

Stormhost Silver is a bright, silvery metallic paint. There’s not much to say except that this is probably the best metallic paint for highlighting steel metals you can find in the Citadel line. A comparable metallic paint would be Vallejo Steel Paint, which may not apply as easily to sharp edges. I tend not to use this bright silver as a base metallic paint because it doesn’t have the best coverage. But, with a bit of patience, you will find this eminently useful as a highlighting metallic paint for brightening up metals, even golds. Retributor Armour Rakarth Flesh is another base color that provides you with many versatile applications. Start with this color as a basecoat or use it as a highlight layer paint. Solid opaque coverage can be had in 1-2 coats. A small bit of water will help it flow off your brush. I use this paint color for lighter skin tones, for painting parchment papers (e.g., purity seals, anyone?), and as a dry brush highlight color over browns and dark grays that you may often find on model bases or terrain bits. This is a lovely paint that I recommend for its many uses. Bugman’s Glow I decided to paint the British Napoleonic Highlander Centre Companies box from Victrix for this HTPE, tartan and all. Some might call that foolish, and they would be right. At first I thought you were looking for a non- GW source, then I read that and worried if GW had discontinued Grey Seer. Retributor Armour is the absolute base gold metallic paint (here’s my in-depth review of this amazing gold paint). Gold metallic paint, like yellow paint, have had a bad rap for having poor coverage. They are often hard to use and frequently result in a splotchy finishes. Not Retributor Armour. This gold paint covers any well-primed surface in 1-2 coats, easily, creating a prototypical beautiful gold reflective finish. You can either use it as the primary gold metallic, or shade it with Reikland Flesh or Seraphim Sepia. Use a purple wash, and you turn this gold into a copper metallic (see a more thorough overview of working with metallic paint among others in this article). You can edge highlight this gold with a bit of Stormhost Silver, and give it a bright specular sheen. Technical/Texture Paints Nighthaunt GloomIt goes on like a dream. I actually brush painted the big raised engine nodes on the prow of the bike no sweat at all. I then did some full bodied edge highlighting all the way around the bike.

I base the whole thing in Mechanicus Standard Grey, then wash it unevenly with Agrax Earthshade. From there i heavily drybrush on Dawnstone and then lightly with Terminatus Stone.As usual, we’ll explore several different methods for building your own urban bases, starting with the one that takes the least time (and most money), and then looking at how several other Gonnhammer authors build their urban bases.